I Spy Packets

These packets are pretty quick to make and can be inexpensive. No I can't bring myself to using a pencil case, loading it up with the "inners" and then glueing it shut. That's the quickest, but I want sturdy. I do it the old-fashioned way.

Since I'm making these for seniors with dementia and my grandchildren, I like to be over-cautious. Every seam has at least one back-up or additional seam, like top-stitching. The inside seams are serged and then stitched. Told ya, overkill. I don't want these small pieces inside to get out and cause any problems.

Materials

•  1 Fat Quarter for fabric (can get TWO, possibly THREE packets from that)
•  1 scrap piece of fabric for the "lining"

NOTE: I used flannel on this first one but I think I will use a white cotton or muslin on the rest.

•  1 cup poly pellets
•  6-8 small trinkets (wide variety available, I went with buttons but small toys work too)
•  clear vinyl (I bought a 1/2 yard of 54" wide medium weight. Will last for a long time)
•  Camera/printer for "guide"

STEP 1: Cut fabric
I cut out two pieces fabric from the Fat Quarter (or any fabric will do...use your stash) approximately 9" x 9." Set one of the 9x9" square aside.  Using a rotary cutter, cut four 1.5" stripes from the second 9" x 9" square PLUS a 1" strip and set those aside.

Cut an 8" x 8" square of the vinyl. Set aside with the strips you just cut. Those will form the front panel.

Cut a 9" x 9" square of plain fabric for the lining. I used flannel on the first one but I plan to use an old white cotton sheet for the next one. Unbleached muslin is another low-cost option. The plain lining makes it easier to focus on the objects to find. PLUS, it provides a second layer of protection in case the outer fabric wears and gets a hold in it.

STEP 2: Prep back
Baste the lining to the back of the 9" x 9" square of fabric and set aside. That's the back of the packet.

STEP 3: Prep front
The front of the packet will have a clear window. To construct, I put one of the 1.5" strips of fabric on my cutting matt, right side up (yes, picture has it down on the right side, ignore that, please put it right side up so you can see the fabric's  pattern).

I put the clear 8x8" vinyl piece on my cutting mat (sizes are not exact like with quilting, just make sure the front and back panels, when finished, are cut exact for easy sewing) aligning the long edge of the fabric strip and the vinyl. Sew a 3/8" seam.
In the picture, the one on the left is the bottom border; the right is the top border.

TWO TIPS:  One - use quilt binder clips to hold the vinyl and fabric strip together. DO NOT use pins as they will create a permanent hole in the vinyl. Binder clips work great.

TWO - at the sewing machine, put the fabric side down so the feed dogs will grab the fabric. To keep the pressure foot from sticking on the vinyl, use a damp [paper] towel and, just before sewing the seam, rub the damp towel over the vinyl. The moisture will help prevent the pressure foot from sticking.

As I mentioned above, I double-sew everything. Turn the fabric strip over, and finger press the seam. If you're careful, you can use a slightly warm iron to press the fabric only. The iron will melt the vinyl so be careful. With the seam pressed, top stitch at a 1/4" from the seam and a second top stitch 1/16" of an inch from the seam. If you're lucky enough or skilled enough to use a double needle for the top-stitching, that would make a more professional finish.

When I pressed the top border, I used the lines on a cutting mat to try to square the "window" as much as possible. BEFORE top-stitching, I prepared the "guide" (next step)

STEP 4: Create guide

Next I took a picture of the seven items to be added to the packet, laying them out on the lining in a straight row. At my laptop, I formatted the picture to the size needed (7" x 1.5") and added the names of the items using Photoshop Elements. The guide was printed on 20 lb. white paper, folded along the bottom and cut the double-layer out using scissors (paper cutter would work, too).

STEP 5: Add guide - finish front frame
Back at the cutting mat, I added the paper guide to the center of the vinyl, pushing it up to the seam joining the vinyl and fabric on the "back" side. I top-stitched the fabric (step 3), catching the top of paper guide and the bottom of the fabric border when I did the 1/16" line of stitching.  Remember to do the 1/4" top stitching, too.

To create the border along the bottom of the guide, I took the 1" strip of fabric and, using the iron, pressed 1/3 of the strip under along the long side, then turned the opposite side under 1/3 of the way, overlapping the opposite side, to create "finished" edges on the top and bottom of the long edges. Using a few very small dots of glue, I adhered the fabric strip along the bottom edge of the guide, applying the fabric to the top of the vinyl piece.  When dried, I top stitched 1/16" from the top edge of the fabric ONLY, again catching the paper guide in the top line of stitching. Leave bottom edge top-stitching for step 6.

Sides of front frame

Repeating step 3, add the sides to the front frame using the last two 1.5" strips of fabric. Make sure the seam catches the sides of the guide at the top of the frame.

STEP 6: Sew packet together
Put the front and back panels of the packet together, right sides facing. Before sewing, use a rotary cutter and ruler to square the four sides of the packet.

Leaving the TOP of the packet open, sew the other three sides together. If you have a serger, serge the edges for additional strength. Then sew a 1/4" regular seam (yes, that overkill part again). If you don't have a serger, do a second seam, very close but not overlapping the first seam. Turn the packet right-side-out.  Yes, top stitch the three edges you just completed. This helps the packet lay flat.

Add your trinkets to the bottom of the packet.

Finally, finish the top-stitching of the border under the "guide" but stitching 1/16" from the bottom border under the guide, STOPPING about an inch from one edge to allow for a funnel to insert, allowing for the filling of the packet.

STEP 7: Fill the packet with 1 cup (approximately) of poly pellets
If you can't find poly pellets, rice can also be used.

STEP 8: Finish top stitching
Finish the bottom row of top-stitching left open for the funnel.

I added a line of top-stitching BETWEEN the top and bottom on the border under the guide. I wanted to make sure at least two rows of stitching held the contents securely inside the packet.

At the top, fold under the open edges and press thoroughly, again, being careful NOT to get the hot iron close to the vinyl. Double top-stitch the top and you're done!

This project took me between two-and-three hours and cost under $3.